This region is off the beaten tourist track. Americans? You don't see many of them here. Too bad for them, since Puglia (Apulia in Latin) is beautiful, desolate, strange and delicious. (The best food in Italy, no question. Everything is good there, from seafood to beef and pork in its many manifestations.)

The wine scene, though, is often discouraging. They make far too much plonk for supermercato distribution, and a good many producers survive on their clandestine trade with places like Valpolicella and Brunelloland. Happily, there are small grape farmers who are making wines that are balanced and clean with savory varietal flavors.

Puglia's wine revolution has only just begun.

Producers from Puglia
Mazzone